My wife spends a lot of time trying to make our yard look nice. She works real hard at it but it seems as though she just gets the new plants into the ground and the neighbor’s dog comes over and urinates on them.
Do you have a product that will stop them from using our flowers as hydrants??????
There are several options for this problem. As explained in our DOG CONTROL ARTICLE, canines are largely motivated by scent. Flowers typically have a lot of scent and are readily used by dogs to "present" themselves. Don't take it personally; what your neighbors dog is doing it's doing because of instinct and nothing more.
That being said, this behavior is annoying and sometimes damaging to the plants and soil. One of the most popular products we have sold over the years is ROPEL GRANULES. Simply sprinkle it out where you don't want the dog to go and in theory, it should stay away. We have found it to work well for limited spaces and areas. In other words, a small area up to 10×10 should be manageable; 5,000 sq/ft would be above and beyond what this product was designed to manage.
Alternatively, the general DOG REPELLENT is better suited for larger areas and is a good "border" patrol that can help deter wandering animals. We have heard about really good results when the two granules are used simultaneously.
Two other products worth mentioning is the MOTION ACTIVATED WATER SPRAYER and the ULTRA SOUND REPELLER. The Water Sprayer will definitely work; dogs and cats can't stand being sprayed so it's an excellent repellent. The Ultra Sound should work since dogs have a keen sense of hearing and seem to be sensitive to the high frequency emitted and quickly learn to avoid the area.
Filed under dogs by 
Hello,
What do you recommend to catch lizards inside the house?
Lizards find their way into houses quite a bit. Ideally, you should spray around the outside of the home with some of the CYPERMETHRIN listed in our LIZARD CONTROL ARTICLE. This will both repel lizards as well as take away what they eat. By removing their food supply, they'll have to forage elsewhere so this means less will get inside.
Once they are in the home, set out some LIZARD TRAPS where you have seen them. These traps use insect odors to attract predators like lizards and work quite well.
Filed under lizard by
HELP!!!!! I have the world's peskiest woodchucks and have been told pure fox urine made into stocking kits will do the trick and chase them away. Needless 2 say I am not in the market for a red fox – however – could u direct me 2 which of ur products is best 4 that purpose. Since my favorite little critters (?) r under my sheds, my barns, and my garages I need a way 2 dispense this fragrance (LOL) deep under ground. Thanx 4 ur help – look forward 2 ordering some blessed relief soon.
If you read our on line article on WOODCHUCK CONTROL, you'll learn that both COYOTE URINE and RED FOX URINE can help to keep woodchucks away. Our's is 100% natural and very strong; it's not diluted in any way. We have had people use either for chasing woodchucks away that have been living in a den but results are not 100% positive that this will always work. Trapping is the preferred method and once caught the animal can be relocated somewhere else so the problem will definitely be resolved. If you wish to try the Urine first, go with the Red Fox.
After the woodchucks have been relocated, if you have a lingering Urine Odor, you can treat the same area with some NNZ. It's all natural and biodegradeable so it won't hurt the ground at all. Amazingly, we've been able to use it to neutralize strong odors including animal urine so I'm sure it will get rid of any lingering smell you don't want.
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I live in a house that has cedar siding. The bats hang on the side of my house to rest after they feed when its dark. At dawn they leave and are gone all day. They pee and poop on the side of my house and deck. I dont have any in the house or any in my garage; just the side of my house. Will 4-the-birds spray be all I need?
Most likely. Bats will commonly rest in between feeding and sometimes this can present a problem if it's on a home or other man made structure. 4-THE-BIRDS LIQUID or GEL applied to the areas where they are roosting will chase them away for sure. You might also consider the BAT SCREENING or BAT NETTING featured in our BAT CONTROL ARTICLE. All of these will keep them away; the cedar is easy for them to cling to so they're just taking advantage of what they have found.
Filed under bat by
We have been looking for help, and came across your website.
We have a house in the woods in the Catskills of New York, and it is being eaten by porcupines. They have been eating the Anderson doors, so we covered them with stained plywood, and they eat that. They are eating out outhouse. They are eating They have eaten parts of our cars, and much more.
How effective is the Ropel spray?
Is there any problem with spraying it onto a newly stained log cabin?
Two porcupines showed up on Saturday night – one was eating the outhouse, and the other was eating the plywood covering the doors.
We would appreciate any help you can give us. This problem is making us sick.
We imagine that there are many, many porcupines. There are ledges behind us and even an old unused quarry.
Is there any health problem, or problem caused by using the spray? What is it made of?
Please let us know. Thank you in advance.
First, porcupines can and will do a lot of damage when wood is presented to them untreated and vulnerable.
Second, the Ropel is a good product to try initially but if you find it isn't doing the job, you'll need to go to the 4-the-Birds treatment explained in our Porcupine Control article. Based on the level of activity you say you have, I would guess there is a 50-50 chance. But where the Ropel fails, the 4-the-Birds will work.
Third, there is no problem using either product on a newly stained cabin.
Four, there could be more porcupines which is why many times the best solution is to trap them out and relocate them as explained in our Porcupine Control Article.
Fifth, there is no health problems caused by either spray; they are merely bad tasting repellents which animals do not like to eat.
Filed under porcupine by
I've been looking at the website and looking for some armadillo repellent and the one that states it controls armadillos goes to the mole repellent. My question is are they one and the same? My other question is how effective is it?
In fact the product Whole Control can be used for Moles, Voles, Pocket Gophers, Armadillos and other ground digging herbivores. It takes 2-3 weeks to reach full effectiveness and can last several months when applied as directed. For more specific details, review the Whole Control Label.
Filed under repellents by
Does your bat screening come in different colors?
Our Bat Screening only comes in black. However, we have had many customers install it and then paint it different colors to make it "blend in". It will hold outside grade house paint well.
Filed under Blog by
We have a bird – I think a cardinal – pecking at my kitchen window. I have no idea why but it's getting to be quite annoying. What can we do to chase it away? I've been going outside every time he comes around but it's getting ridiculous. Is there some kind of spray I put on the window that will repel them?
Birds get territorial from time to time during the year. During this time they will confront enemies or other birds they believe to be in their "space". The birds that are pecking are probably seeing their own reflection in your window and this is what is making them peck. Though this behavior may stop in the coming weeks, there are many times where it will happen year round. Obviously this is a problem.
To get them to stop, set out some Bird Discs outside in front of any window where you have this happening. You can read more about these discs in our Woodpecker Control article. If the Discs don't deter them, place out an Attack Spider. These mechanical devices move when birds or something else get too close and will chase them away every time.
Filed under pecking by
Does the bird screen come in colors other than black? Also, will the bird screen protect against squirrels or only birds? I would appreciate it if you could get back to me with this information as soon as possible. Thank you in advance.
The screening only comes in black. However, it can be painted and made to "blend" in if needed for cosmetic reasons. But it's really only strong enough for birds. Squirrels are tenacious and will require some of the Copper Wool and Repellent Foam if you want to use something that will surely stop them.
Filed under bird by
I have a new colony of beaver living close to where I live on a large lake. They make dens in the side of bank in an inlet to the lake. I have a live trap with one open door… and floor trigger in the other end. It’s about 12” x 12” x 24”… all heavy wire. Your article suggests a two door trap to let them see through trap. Before I order your scents, I wanted to ask you if a one-door trap might work?
I have located their den opening in the side of the bank. They are pushing out their winter nesting trash right now. If I can use a one door trap, what about setting it right in the door opening? Should I board-in the opening into trap? Do they likely have another entry/exit which they can use to escape if I do this?
Thanks for responses.
First, I think you might need to find out for sure if the animal you have is indeed a beaver. Muskrat commonly nest in these locations where beaver build dens as described in our beaver control article. You can learn more about muskrat in our muskrat control article and since they are commonly seen in the 15-20 inch size, I'm thinking that's what you might have if you think a 24" trap will be big enough for your target animal. These are much smaller animals thought they do swim like beaver and like to stay in the water so the two can be confused for one another.
Second, the single door trap can catch beaver. However, beaver are quite large and you'll need to use one of the beaver sized traps we have in our beaver live trap section. These are much bigger than 24 inches and the bigger the trap used, the better the chance you have of success.
Third, using the trap as you describe would work easily on a muskrat but not so easily on a beaver as they are more wary of such setups. Again, confirm that you do indeed have a beaver and at that time we'll further assist getting you set up with the right lure, trap and setup. Call us at 1.800.877.7290 for further assistance.
Filed under beaver by
I HAVE A FEW SQUIRRELS LIVING IN MY HOUSE. THERES ONE SIDE OF MY HOUSE THAT HASNT HAD SIDING PUT UP AND THEYVE GOT A LARGE HOLE THEY GO IN AND OUT AND ALSO CHEWED THROUGH MY SOFFITT. THEVE GOTTEN TO BE A BIG PROBLEM. I HEARE THEM CHEW AND NOW RUNNING BETEWEEN THE 1ST FLOOR CEILING AND UPSTAIRS FLOOR. THEYVE BEEN HERE A COUPLE YEARS BUT NOW GETTING MORE ARGESSIVE OR CLOSER TO BEING INSIDE. I ALSO HAVE TREE SQUIRRELS WHICH I DONT REALLY WANT TO KILL JUST ONES INSIDE. ITS ALMOST IMPOSSISABLE TO GET TO WHERE THERE AT. NOT REALLY AN ATTIC ACCESS JUST HOLE ON SIDE OF HOUSE. I NEED ADVICE WHICH PRODUCT TO TRY. IVE USED A SQUIRREL REPELLENT (GRANUALS) PEPPER JUICE I THINK BUT KEPT THEM QUIET 4 AWHILE BUT DIDNT GET RID OF THEM. HATE TO POSION THEM IN FEAR OF THEM DYING IN ATTIC AND ROTTING AND STINKING. WHAT TO DO .. THANKS … GOING NUTS NO PUND INTENDED
This is going to be a tough problem to resolve. When squirrels have had access to a property for this long, they will not give it up willingly. You will have to trap and relocate all which are active using one of our squirrel traps. Since there are strong scent trails in place to attract them from quite some distance, I suspect you could be catching a lot before the trapping process is complete. If you have 5-10 squirrels on the house now that you know about, it means you'll have to catch at least 10-20. The good news is that the squirrel trapping will be very easy. Simply place it outside the house, alongside the house on the side which has all the activity, and you'll be getting them every day or two. Use some Pecan Paste with the trap sets to insure a quick catch and within 30-60 days, you should be mostly squirrel free.
Over the next year or two squirrels will routinely be curious because there are strong smells around so don't be surprised by any new activity. This will happen till the odor wears off which will take some time as explained in our squirrel control article. If you see any one squirrel hanging around more than a day, you'll have to trap it out even if it's not living in your house. If given the chance, they will move in given the history of scent trails in place so this is to be expected. Two things to remember; take trapped squirrels at least 10 miles away for relocation to insure they don't come back. And don't seal up any holes till you've relocated all the squirrels which are active. This will probably be after a couple of months. Good luck!
I live in California and have ground squirrels living in my backyard. They like to eat my grass and dig holes in the dirt. They have left my grass looking like a putting green. There are about six of them. What do you recommend I use to get rid of them?
First, you need to remove the ones currently active. This can be done with any of our ground squirrel live traps. Based on how many you say you have, I'd go with the LT5518RD. If you thing this trap isn't quite big enough, get the LT7824 seen on our ground squirrel traps page. Once you've successfully removed all the active squirrels, go ahead and set up some ground squirrel repellent to keep any new ones from starting a new nest. This will be important since the odors and scents from the ground squirrels active right now will linger if you don't set up the repellents.
Filed under problem by
I'm buying a home and there is a cat that under the house. We're getting rid of him but there is cat urine smell and who knows what else. What products should I buy to get rid of that smell and they are they safe for my kids when I move in? I purchased a cat and dog outdoor spray at the local pet store but it smells like garlic. I don't think I can handle that very long once I'm living there. I saw something in your website about bacteria eating product to eat away where the cat might of peed. Please help, I move into my new home on the first!!!
Cat urine odor can be nasty. It's persistent, strong and seems to get worse every time it gets moist or damp outside. Fortunately there is relief. We have two products which would work well for this problem. Both work equally as well; the NNZ has no odor and the N7C has a slight sweet smell. These products are non hazardous and ideally suited for the situation you have. Each 1/2 gallon of concentrate will be able to cover 500-1000 sq/ft. Be sure to treat the entire area. Generally, it's easiest to spray with a good pump sprayer but if the area is hard to access, use a BG Fogger. If used properly, one treatment will knock the odor out. If the smell is persistent after 1 week, treat again. You'll find all these items listed in our cat control products page here along with some other good tools that might be needed. Good luck!
Filed under cat by
