I like the tattle tail alarm, my only problem is my car is outside, i am in Florida, rainy season, could i put these in plastic bags ? Will they work like that ?
Must keep these cats off of car. What do you recommend ? Please Advise
THANX !!
No doubt you can use a TATTLETALE even if it's placed inside a zip lock bag. That should protect it enough from the direct rain and weather. Another option that would work for sure is the Ultra Sound device. It has a much larger range and is weather proof. It's the last one down on this page:
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page851.html
It would work for any animal that might come around the car. The Cat Stop is just for cats and can be seen here:
http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2163.html
I believe one of the ultra sound devices would work better for this situation; if you do get the Tattletale, you might want to get at least two to make sure you have adequate coverage on the entire vehicle and it you may even need three units. Remember, most cars have "sections" and I'm afraid the one won't be able to detect motion, weight or anything hopping around the rear end of the vehicle or the roof if it's place on the front hood. And just one on the roof may not sense anything on the trunk or hood. I think you get the idea. We've had people need only one, some have needed two and some have needed three. There is no way to tell without testing as each car is definitely different. Even cars of the same make, model and year have different "sound transmitting" power so just make sure you test it and have enough installed to insure there will be a sound no matter where any cat jumps on the car. Good luck!
Filed under cats by 
I have a pecan tree that produces large pecans that are very meaty and just taste great. My problem is that for the past five years, the squirells had bitten off the large green pecans that still have the case. In one visit they can almost empty the tree from the pecans that we wait all year to enjoy. They never get in my home because it is tightly closed. I don't want to kill them, just keep them away from the tree long enough to harvest the pecans. If there is anything you can suggest that will help us, it will be an answer to our big problem.
Thanks for your help.
Trying to protect pecan's in the average pecan tree is a tall order to say the least. Animals like squirrels can access them from so many angles it's not possible to protect the tree directly. Bad tasting agents can ruin the crop and pecan trees can grow so large their not practical to shield. In the end the best option is a non direct approach. This means reducing the threat which is clearly the squirrels. So, how do you reduce the local population?
If you take some time to review our SQUIRREL CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll find we have many LIVE TRAP options listed. This is definitely the way to go. Placing out 2-4 live traps around the tree or trees you want to protect baited with PECAN PASTE will quickly catch the culprits. Once trapped you can relocate them at least 10 miles away so they don't return. In the end, you should be able to trap and relocate enough to where the population will be small enough so it will not matter.
Here are direct links to the products and information listed above:
Squirrel Control: http://www.bugspray.com/article/squirrels.html
Live Traps: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/traps/squirrel_trap.html
Pecan Paste: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page784.html
Filed under squirell problems by
We have a bunch of armadillos and babies over the past month, in our backyard. Which of your products would work, and not affect our own dog when we take her out on leash. The armadillos come out of the woods approx. 50 ft .from where are dog goes out in backyard?
Thanks in advance.
If you review our ARMADILLO CONTROL ARTILCLE, you'll find we discuss various ULTRA SOUND DEVICES that can be used to emit a sound which will repel targeted animals in the direction you point the speaker. If you place one or two of these out close to the woods where they come into your yard, there is a good chance you'll be able to keep them away. The YARD GARD will only sound when it's motion detector is activated so if you point it where the armadillo's are active, you should be able to go out and enjoy the yard withoug having it go off just because you're around. It's definitely the one for this job. Furthermore, the sound does not hurt anyone or any animal; it's a just a sound which certain animals find offensive and will stay away from where they hear it.
Additionally, dogs which reside on the property will learn to stay out of it's range too. And even if they did activate it a time or two, it won't hurt them so it will be fine for use around your pet and they'll quickly learn where to avoid it. Alternatively, none of our other repellents would be appropriate for this area so I'm afraid you're only other option would be to LIVE TRAP them and then relocate them elsewhere. This would require more work in the long run but is an option.
Here are direct links to the products and information cited above:
Armadillo Control: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page438.html
Ultra Sound Devices: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page853.html
Yard Gard: http://www.accountwizard.com/clients/shop.asp?web=bugspray&outsidelink=item&value=747788
Live Traps: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page448.html
Filed under armadillo problems by
Dear Bugspray.com, I've just ordered two porcupine traps from you but was hard pressed to learn what baits you recommend for porcupines using these traps. Any advice would be appreciated. Many thanks, B.W.
Porcupines love salt. As explained in our PORCUPINE CONTROL ARTICLE, they'll readily eat anything salty. They've been known to chew the wooden handles of a wheel barrel because it was drenched in human sweat!
They also love fruit. We've learned an apple cut up and covered with salt works well. Place 3-4 pieces just outside the PORCUPINE TRAP and then one inside and 2-4 behind the trip pan. This will get them every time!
Here are direct links to the article and trap selection if needed:
Porcupine Control: http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/porcupines.html
Porcupine Trap: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page555.html
Filed under trapping by
Porcupines are eating the plywood at the cabin, what can I do to stop this?
There are two products you can employ to deter this behavior. If you review our PORCUPINE CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll read about ROPEL and NON DRYING GLUE. Both are repellents. The Ropel is a bad tasting agent that can be sprayed all over the wood. It will dry invisible and if applied heavy enough, stop them from desiring the wood.
4-The-Birds is a more "extreme" product in that it's a non drying glue through which they cannot chew. In general it's not practical to use on a large scale since it's a bit messy. But no doubt it will stop this behavior on the spot. If there is a limited area where they'e active, you might consider using it. But if the wood being attacked is all around the home, using the Ropel might be the best option.
And don't rule out live trapping. In our article we have several live traps listed which are highly effective for porcupines. They're both easy to catch and in the long run, this is one of the best ways to control the local activity. You can see our full line of product offerings in our PORCUPINE PRODUCTS PAGE.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Porcupine Control: http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/porcupines.html
Ropel: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page554.html
Glue Repellent: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1014.html
Porcupine Products: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page552.html
Filed under porcupine by
My wife spends a lot of time trying to make our yard look nice. She works real hard at it but it seems as though she just gets the new plants into the ground and the neighbor’s dog comes over and urinates on them.
Do you have a product that will stop them from using our flowers as hydrants??????
There are several options for this problem. As explained in our DOG CONTROL ARTICLE, canines are largely motivated by scent. Flowers typically have a lot of scent and are readily used by dogs to "present" themselves. Don't take it personally; what your neighbors dog is doing it's doing because of instinct and nothing more.
That being said, this behavior is annoying and sometimes damaging to the plants and soil. One of the most popular products we have sold over the years is ROPEL GRANULES. Simply sprinkle it out where you don't want the dog to go and in theory, it should stay away. We have found it to work well for limited spaces and areas. In other words, a small area up to 10×10 should be manageable; 5,000 sq/ft would be above and beyond what this product was designed to manage.
Alternatively, the general DOG REPELLENT is better suited for larger areas and is a good "border" patrol that can help deter wandering animals. We have heard about really good results when the two granules are used simultaneously.
Two other products worth mentioning is the MOTION ACTIVATED WATER SPRAYER and the ULTRA SOUND REPELLER. The Water Sprayer will definitely work; dogs and cats can't stand being sprayed so it's an excellent repellent. The Ultra Sound should work since dogs have a keen sense of hearing and seem to be sensitive to the high frequency emitted and quickly learn to avoid the area.
Filed under dogs by
Hello,
What do you recommend to catch lizards inside the house?
Lizards find their way into houses quite a bit. Ideally, you should spray around the outside of the home with some of the CYPERMETHRIN listed in our LIZARD CONTROL ARTICLE. This will both repel lizards as well as take away what they eat. By removing their food supply, they'll have to forage elsewhere so this means less will get inside.
Once they are in the home, set out some LIZARD TRAPS where you have seen them. These traps use insect odors to attract predators like lizards and work quite well.
Filed under lizard by
HELP!!!!! I have the world's peskiest woodchucks and have been told pure fox urine made into stocking kits will do the trick and chase them away. Needless 2 say I am not in the market for a red fox – however – could u direct me 2 which of ur products is best 4 that purpose. Since my favorite little critters (?) r under my sheds, my barns, and my garages I need a way 2 dispense this fragrance (LOL) deep under ground. Thanx 4 ur help – look forward 2 ordering some blessed relief soon.
If you read our on line article on WOODCHUCK CONTROL, you'll learn that both COYOTE URINE and RED FOX URINE can help to keep woodchucks away. Our's is 100% natural and very strong; it's not diluted in any way. We have had people use either for chasing woodchucks away that have been living in a den but results are not 100% positive that this will always work. Trapping is the preferred method and once caught the animal can be relocated somewhere else so the problem will definitely be resolved. If you wish to try the Urine first, go with the Red Fox.
After the woodchucks have been relocated, if you have a lingering Urine Odor, you can treat the same area with some NNZ. It's all natural and biodegradeable so it won't hurt the ground at all. Amazingly, we've been able to use it to neutralize strong odors including animal urine so I'm sure it will get rid of any lingering smell you don't want.
Filed under groundhog by
I live in a house that has cedar siding. The bats hang on the side of my house to rest after they feed when its dark. At dawn they leave and are gone all day. They pee and poop on the side of my house and deck. I dont have any in the house or any in my garage; just the side of my house. Will 4-the-birds spray be all I need?
Most likely. Bats will commonly rest in between feeding and sometimes this can present a problem if it's on a home or other man made structure. 4-THE-BIRDS LIQUID or GEL applied to the areas where they are roosting will chase them away for sure. You might also consider the BAT SCREENING or BAT NETTING featured in our BAT CONTROL ARTICLE. All of these will keep them away; the cedar is easy for them to cling to so they're just taking advantage of what they have found.
Filed under bat by
We have been looking for help, and came across your website.
We have a house in the woods in the Catskills of New York, and it is being eaten by porcupines. They have been eating the Anderson doors, so we covered them with stained plywood, and they eat that. They are eating out outhouse. They are eating They have eaten parts of our cars, and much more.
How effective is the Ropel spray?
Is there any problem with spraying it onto a newly stained log cabin?
Two porcupines showed up on Saturday night – one was eating the outhouse, and the other was eating the plywood covering the doors.
We would appreciate any help you can give us. This problem is making us sick.
We imagine that there are many, many porcupines. There are ledges behind us and even an old unused quarry.
Is there any health problem, or problem caused by using the spray? What is it made of?
Please let us know. Thank you in advance.
First, porcupines can and will do a lot of damage when wood is presented to them untreated and vulnerable. No doubt log cabins, plywood, hardy board and many other common manmade construction material made with wood can become food for any local porcupines.
Second, the ROPEL is a good product to try initially but if you find it isn't doing the job, you'll need to go to the 4-THE-BIRDS LIQUID treatment explained in our PORCUPINE CONTROL article. Based on the level of activity you say you have, I would guess there is a 50-50 chance. But where the Ropel fails, the 4-the-Birds will work.
Third, there is no problem using either product on a newly stained cabin.
Four, there could be more porcupines which is why many times the best solution is to trap them out and relocate them as explained in our article.
Fifth, there is no health problems caused by either spray; they are merely bad tasting repellents which animals do not like to eat.
Here are direct links to the products and information listed above:
Ropel: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page554.html
4-The-Birds Liquid: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1014.html
Porcupine Control: http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/porcupines.html
Filed under porcupine by
I've been looking at the website and looking for some armadillo repellent and the one that states it controls armadillos goes to the mole repellent. My question is are they one and the same? My other question is how effective is it?
In fact the product Whole Control can be used for Moles, Voles, Pocket Gophers, Armadillos and other ground digging herbivores. It takes 2-3 weeks to reach full effectiveness and can last several months when applied as directed. For more specific details, review the Whole Control Label.
Filed under repellents by
Does your bat screening come in different colors?
Our Bat Screening only comes in black. However, we have had many customers install it and then paint it different colors to make it "blend in". It will hold outside grade house paint well.
Filed under Blog by
We have a bird – I think a cardinal – pecking at my kitchen window. I have no idea why but it's getting to be quite annoying. What can we do to chase it away? I've been going outside every time he comes around but it's getting ridiculous. Is there some kind of spray I put on the window that will repel them?
Birds get territorial from time to time during the year. During this time they will confront enemies or other birds they believe to be in their "space". The birds that are pecking are probably seeing their own reflection in your window and this is what is making them peck. Though this behavior may stop in the coming weeks, there are many times where it will happen year round. Obviously this is a problem.
To get them to stop, set out some Bird Discs outside in front of any window where you have this happening. You can read more about these discs in our Woodpecker Control article. If the Discs don't deter them, place out an Attack Spider. These mechanical devices move when birds or something else get too close and will chase them away every time.
Filed under pecking by
Does the bird screen come in colors other than black? Also, will the bird screen protect against squirrels or only birds? I would appreciate it if you could get back to me with this information as soon as possible. Thank you in advance.
The screening only comes in black. However, it can be painted and made to "blend" in if needed for cosmetic reasons. But it's really only strong enough for birds. Squirrels are tenacious and will require some of the Copper Wool and Repellent Foam if you want to use something that will surely stop them.
Filed under bird by
I have a new colony of beaver living close to where I live on a large lake. They make dens in the side of bank in an inlet to the lake. I have a live trap with one open door… and floor trigger in the other end. It’s about 12” x 12” x 24”… all heavy wire. Your article suggests a two door trap to let them see through trap. Before I order your scents, I wanted to ask you if a one-door trap might work?
I have located their den opening in the side of the bank. They are pushing out their winter nesting trash right now. If I can use a one door trap, what about setting it right in the door opening? Should I board-in the opening into trap? Do they likely have another entry/exit which they can use to escape if I do this?
Thanks for responses.
First, I think you might need to find out for sure if the animal you have is indeed a beaver. Muskrat commonly nest in these locations where beaver build dens as described in our beaver control article. You can learn more about muskrat in our muskrat control article and since they are commonly seen in the 15-20 inch size, I'm thinking that's what you might have if you think a 24" trap will be big enough for your target animal. These are much smaller animals thought they do swim like beaver and like to stay in the water so the two can be confused for one another.
Second, the single door trap can catch beaver. However, beaver are quite large and you'll need to use one of the beaver sized traps we have in our beaver live trap section. These are much bigger than 24 inches and the bigger the trap used, the better the chance you have of success.
Third, using the trap as you describe would work easily on a muskrat but not so easily on a beaver as they are more wary of such setups. Again, confirm that you do indeed have a beaver and at that time we'll further assist getting you set up with the right lure, trap and setup. Call us at 1.800.877.7290 for further assistance.
Filed under beaver by
